ascMcLaren Enthusiasts

[darkhorse40]

After finally finishing the fuel system, usually only working an hour at a time (that's why it took so long), I have the proper pressure necessary for the car to perform as expected

MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED BEFORE PERFORMING ANY SERVICE ON THE FUEL AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

I don't like that the pump relay was under the carpet, under the driver's seat. Ford was smart to move it but they could have found a better place than above the computer. THANKS to MRBRUSER for the location. You actually posted your reply within minutes, and minutes later I had the bad relay in my hand.

Owners with the relay under the seat should check the plug as MRBRUSER says in his post. Most of the wires in my plug were corroded and needed replacement. Order the new part as soon as you know you need it, as I found the hard way that no one has it in stock.

When it came to the pump, I found that you can buy the fuel sender, pump , and pickup screen seperately, or as an assembly. I could only find the assembly at a parts warehouse. I spent 40% less and didn't have the hassle of putting it together. The brand is Airtex. The sender had corrosion on the outlet tubes and I did not trust it's integrity, so it had to go. I replaced the locking ring that holds the assembly inside tha tank due to corrosion and mutilation during removal. Not anyone stocks this either. 25 bucks for a piece of stamped steel, so if you can remove it undamaged your ahead. There is a seal between the sender and the tank that should get a small amount of oil to keep it from drying and cracking prematurely.

Good idea to get new clips for the fuel line as well. Ford does not recommend re-use of them. There are two different sizes. One for the main line and the smaller size for the return. They are 2.69 for a pack of five at Pep Boys. Correct method is to place the clip in the fuel line and then pop the fuel line onto the sender outlet tube.

When you get ready to start her up, Ford recommends 10 gallons minimum for initial fuel system charging. I got away with 3 to 4 no problem.

While the tank was out I tested for proper conductivity between all connections and found no trouble. For those of you who bought cars that have been sitting or neglected, I'm finding it to be best policy to check anything and everything electrical and seek assistance if you are unsure of what your up to.

Finally, if your are working with the fuel system, take care to avoid sparks and open flame. Drain the fuel tank and lines as best you can. Wear safety glasses. And going to extremes, my buddy insisted on making me use his brass punch and hammer to preclude any sparks being created while taking apart and un-taking apart of the tank. (good friends are hard to come by and he couldn't have me exploding myself)

OK, I'm out of wind now
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/darkhorse40/

1991 black on black on black 4 seater
1984 #43 Dark Jade Green
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R

[tfs2121]

ahhhh you used an airtex pump!

its a good thing you did this wright up... youll be droping that gas tank again!

i have done hundreds of fuel pumps at work. airtex pumps are crap. i dont think i have ever put one in that didnt come back within a few months. i wont use any brand other then delphi they are the best. (unless they dont make a pump for the car im working on) dont use oil on the gas tank o-ring only use a synthetic grease. oil and rubber do not get along.

your friend is very right about the brass punch. it is always a good idea. i have never used one but its still a good idea.
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~Peter
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe

[shaolinfox30]

I agree w/ tfs2121 about airtex.
I just dida fuel pump on my 88, used: 1 - 0019684 - BBK 110 Lph Kit
The BBK pumps are actually manufactured by Walbro ( if memory serves)
GOT FROM https://www.lmperformance.com/order.asp for $109 + tax.

[darkhorse40]

Well, now I'm glad I wrote it up too. It will give me an excuse to change the straps that were not in stock at the store when the pump does go bad. I'll have to get my own pressure gauge and keep my eye on it regularly.

I also used the heaviest grade bolts and some thread compound my friend suggested to keep from having to drill them out again. The bolts and clips were fused by rust. They had to be drilled out. I used cobalt drill bits, and then sharpened them after finishing. (they're expensive.)

Do yo guys know if someone else makes the assembly, or will I have to rip the sender apart to change the pump. I had another pump, and pickup screen ready to go, but when I found the assembly pre-made, lets face it, that was more appealing. We'll see how long it lasts, and I will ammend this thread when it goes bad. At least I wont have to buy another, and it will go quicker with the parts already in hand.

I had meant to say grease, not oil on the big o ring, so that is OK. It was not synthetic. I did end up with an extra one, so I'm ready when it's time to do it again.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/darkhorse40/

1991 black on black on black 4 seater
1984 #43 Dark Jade Green
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R

[86capri62]

My original pump from my 86 capri was a Walbro( the date on it matched the cars date). I ordered the Summit racing base pump and it is a WALBRO identical to the original that lasted until this summer. I expect the new Walbro to last as long.
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87 Ferrari Mondial 3.2 cabriolet(sold)
86 ASCMcLaren vert (sold)
80 corvette (sold)
77 Ferrari 308 GTB(sold)
90 Ferrari Testarossa(yellow)(sold)
2007 Corvette convertible supercharged(sold)
2005 MB SLK 350
2008 Rotorway helicopter