New owner 88

88-254 · Post by **88-254** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:27 pm

88-254 wrote:
ASCMCLRN wrote:
88-254 wrote: Thank you. That makes me feel better. I was starting to wonder what exactly I had. Handmade, wonderful, not like today's cookie cutter units.
So, these variations are normal. Makes each one of them unique.

Cindy
Cindy,

This can get rather confusing so let's just use your car exclusively right now as an example then go into some of the changes that took place in general.

In your case They did not authorize to have the emblems on both sides of the exterior just above the body molding rear of the doors. It only belongs on the passenger side.

The rear valance on your vehicle is incorrect. It is a series two design and belongs on the 89-90 models. This would not have come direct from ASC this way as NOS (new old stock) or as an oddball variation. Carfax's do not show everything btw. This could have been changed either from a theft or bodywork that was not reported, or preference from previous owner.

Hornpads. I have seen some 88's with the Ford logo so I have to do some more investigating if this was a mid year change or not. All I can say is 1988 was the year they went with the "ASC McLaren" logo on the horn pad.

Confusing part. The center consoles were changed mid '88 along with the t-top doors (side view mirrors posted on door vs corner of windshield/door) which included power door mirrors for the first time for an ASC. Because you have the older mid console and newer t-top doors makes me wonder if your car was right in the middle of the transition period? I have seen maybe one or two other examples of this.

Keep in mind there are two phases of production we are dealing with here so changes can be because of Ford and ASC. Some changes from Ford were the side view mirrors '88, middle console '88, maf (Mass Air Flow) on California cars '88 then all others in '89, larger speedo mid 89, etc... Some changes from ASC were the hornpads '88, relocating the antenna '88, different ground effects '89 etc... I hope this helps. I have a great love for these cars and hope you get so much enjoyment out of yours too.

Nick
Nick,

You are right about it being confusing. I am not sure quite what all these differences mean as far as what was original and what has been changed and why. I knew about the valence from Shelbyscarab. I have asked Sandy to help with the plaque. I am hoping that will shed some light on eveything.

Thanks,
Cindy

Hi,

Sandy had told me I have car #866, not 254, so would that put it in the transition period that might explain the Ford Horn Pad and the console?

Still does not explain the emblem on each side. They are not identical either. Please tell me what the emblem should have on it.

Thanks,
Cindy

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:55 am

this is what you should have on the right (pass) side of the car. the left side should have nothing.

also hank sells the engraved ones for your dash on his site for $75.

88-254 · Post by **88-254** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:29 pm

tfs2121 wrote:

this is what you should have on the right (pass) side of the car. the left side should have nothing.

also hank sells the engraved ones for your dash on his site for $75.

Well, that is what I have on the passengers side--numbers are different.
On the driver side the plaque just has the writing with out the serial number. Thanks so much for sending the graphic.

I would like to take the wrong on off, but I think it would just mess up the paint. Seems to be have been put on to stay.

Thanks,
Cindy

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 1:17 am

yeah this one would be for an 86 #189. if i was you i would not bother trying to take it off.

88-254 · Post by **88-254** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:21 am

tfs2121 wrote:yeah this one would be for an 86 #189. if i was you i would not bother trying to take it off.

Yes, I think it will stay. Easier that way. Thank you , Cindy

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:09 am

To remove you need:

1.) Time - like 35 minutes
2.) A good hair blower
3.) Dental Floss

Hold hair dryer 1 inch from plaque. On "HIGH" (heat) hold on plaque
moving it back and forth across the face of the plaque. Do this for at
the very least, for 15 minutes. Then use doubled or trippled dental floss and work it up & down (like sawing) while you also gently pull it forward. Go (work) slowly. When it finally comes off, you will need to take it to a body shop to have the remaining glue wiped off, using commercial solvent.

88-254 · Post by **88-254** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:23 pm

Sandy wrote:To remove you need:

1.) Time - like 35 minutes
2.) A good hair blower
3.) Dental Floss

Hold hair dryer 1 inch from plaque. On "HIGH" (heat) hold on plaque
moving it back and forth across the face of the plaque. Do this for at
the very least, for 15 minutes. Then use doubled or trippled dental floss and work it up & down (like sawing) while you also gently pull it forward. Go (work) slowly. When it finally comes off, you will need to take it to a body shop to have the remaining glue wiped off, using commercial solvent.

Thanks Sandy,
I was just afraid I would mess the paint up underneath. I know this in my McLaren, but if I do mess it up, the other half wil have something to say about it. I am sure you are right and it will work.
Cindy

ProTouringASC · Post by **ProTouringASC** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:40 pm

88-254 wrote: Thanks Sandy,
I was just afraid I would mess the paint up underneath. I know this in my McLaren, but if I do mess it up, the other half wil have something to say about it. I am sure you are right and it will work.
Cindy

Or, you can pick up a can of 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover. Liberally soak the back of the emblem, and keep it wet for a good 15 minutes or so. Frequently, after having done this you can peel the emblem off by hand. If not, the dental floss idea will quickly separate it from the car. Once off, use a rag wet with the adhesive remover to clean the remaining adhesive from the car. Wax when finished as the remover will strip the wax.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:10 pm

For me, using liquid on a vertical surface is way too messy.

Post by **negusm** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:44 pm

Be carefull of 3M remover...I got some of the Automotive 3M remover and used it on a few things and it ate away at the plastic.

I now use Goo Gone or Goof Off first and then try the 3M stuff. Maybe the General Purpose 3M stuff is a bit more gentle?

-Mike

bigzeke42 · Post by **bigzeke42** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:33 pm

Try using paint thinner...........(MINERAL SPIRITS)

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 11:20 pm

DONT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE ENAMEL PAINT. it will take your paint right off...

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:04 am

Go to a Dodge, Chrysler or Jeep dealership's parts Dept.

Order a (plastic) BOTTLE of MOPAR SUPER CLEAN, about $6.00 will last you yearS safe if you get it on rubber mouldings, paint, pin stripes, enamel or anything. It IS THE BEST! I have used it for 20++ years.

Really, I m telling the truth~

88-254 · Post by **88-254** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:05 am

Wow, lots of thoughts on the best way to take it off. Thanks. I know I must be careful of the paint, so probably only a chemical that is gentle will do or Sandy's hairdryer method.
I am going to take a look at the more gentler products you all suggested. I just don't want to have to end up painting that part of the car.

If you have more ideas that is great.

Sandy, is the Mopar Super clean for after you get the plaque off to remove the glue? or another product to help take it off?

Has anybody actually removed one of these and or glued one on?

Anyway, today my ASC had its new door pull cups put in at home. Came from Hank. Old ones were quite cracked. One step at a time.

I appreciate all the help.
Cindy

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:20 am

Yes, the super kleen comes AFTER the plaque comes off, to remove the adhesive left behind on the paint.

What you need:

Waxed Dental Floss
Good Quality Hair Dryer use on "high"
Rags
MOPAR Super Kleen
Patience

I USED TO DO THIS WEEKLY - REMOVING OTHER DEALERS NAME PLATES
FROM THE BACK OF TRADE-INS. 10 MINUTES (AT THE LEAST) WITH THE HAIR DRYER, 15 MINUTE IS BETTER.
WITH THE FLOSS YOU MUST GO UP & DOWN IN A VERTICAL SAWING STYLE AND SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY AT THE SAME TIME PULL THE FLOSS TOWRD THE OTHER END OF THE PLAQUE.
WAXED FLOSS IS STRONGER THAN NON.